7 hottest trends for this season

See our guide to the exclusive designs that dominated the spring-summer collections of the most influential brands

New perspective on grunge

Cargo trousers, distressed denim pieces, chunky combat boots, and checked flannel shirts - this season we are returning to the 90s again to focus on the then-reigning grunge style. Following the vision of top fashion houses, we're opting for sharp, rebellious and seemingly slouchy silhouettes that evoke the iconic looks of Kurt Cobain or Layne Staley. The choice is enormous since the spring-summer collections were not restricted to one rigidly defined aesthetic. Quite the contrary, each brand introduced its rendition of this legendary style, thus gaining a devoted fan base.

Voluminous cargo trousers, models made of distressed denim and practical forms in shades of rotten green were predominant in Givenchy collections. Matthieu Blazy in his collection for Bottega Veneta opted for checked shirts, while Blumarine and Balenciaga concentrated on untidy, stained jeans and oversized cargo pants. Besides its trademark denim pieces, Diesel showcased its vision of grunge in the guise of leather coats with destroyed details and patterned items in earthy colours. What will you opt for this season? See our suggestions for looks inspired by the iconic style and choose something for yourself.

Flared trousers od Versace

Versace

Flared trousers

'hobo small' shoulder bag od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2024

Versace

'Hobo Small' shoulder bag

‘laris’ dress od The Mannei

The Mannei

‘Laris’ dress

Cropped tank top od Blumarine

Blumarine

Cropped tank top

Leather combat boots od Common Projects SPRING/SUMMER 2024

Common Projects

Leather combat boots

'b-army mini' shoulder bag od Balmain PERMANENT COLLECTION

Balmain

'B-Army Mini' shoulder bag

‘cagole’ heeled ankle boots od Balenciaga PERMANENT COLLECTION

Balenciaga

‘Cagole’ heeled ankle boots

Flower power

One could think that everything has been said about floral patterns, but the spring-summer collections prove that the beloved spring motif will assume a completely new and rare form. As far as floral prints are concerned, great designers have gone one step further and presented silhouettes which we can call true works of art. Jonathan Anderson is the undeniable progenitor of this eye-catching trend. Known for his unconventional style, the designer took the dead and buried anthurium flower, and used it to inspire dazzling creations for Loewe. The poisonous plant has not only taken the form of three-dimensional applications on tops and corsets but has even become a full-sized garment.

Bottega Veneta, Dries Van Noten and Acne Studios also were among the brands that presented a new approach to flowers. In the collection of the Italian brand, plants bloomed on semi-sheer chemises and bags, while the Belgian designer turned them into fabric structures applied directly on blazers, shirts, skirts and edgy pumps. Jonny Johansson, the creative director of the Scandinavian fashion house, covered transparent, form-fitting dresses with colourful flowers and converted trouser belts into flowering roses. Which proposition reflects your style best?

Floral pattern skirt od Zimmermann PERMANENT COLLECTION

Zimmermann

Floral Pattern Skirt

Floral motif dress od Zimmermann PERMANENT COLLECTION

Zimmermann

Floral motif dress

‘vela mini’ shoulder bag od Etro PERMANENT COLLECTION

Etro

‘Vela Mini’ shoulder bag

Silk shawl od FERRAGAMO PERMANENT COLLECTION

FERRAGAMO

Silk shawl

Blazer with floral motif od Dolce & Gabbana PERMANENT COLLECTION

Dolce & Gabbana

Blazer with floral motif

Silk slip dress od Dolce & Gabbana PERMANENT COLLECTION

Dolce & Gabbana

Silk slip dress

Silk shawl od FERRAGAMO PERMANENT COLLECTION

FERRAGAMO

Silk shawl

Dress with floral motif od Dolce & Gabbana PERMANENT COLLECTION

Dolce & Gabbana

Dress with floral motif

Experimenting with the classics

This season, the timeless denim wardrobe is evolving far beyond the classic pair of jeans or the staple trucker jacket. The spring-summer collections confirmed our conviction that even popular garments can completely transform our outfits and take them to the highest level of the avant-garde aesthetic by adopting new design features. Layered total looks seen at the Burberry, Chloé and Stella McCartney shows are perfect examples of this thesis. Riccardo Tisci decided to experiment with form, Gabriela Hearst emblazoned the fabric with ornamental tie fastenings, while the British designer vamped up the seemingly classic looks with ragged trims and exceptional faux leather inserts.

Matthew Williams, creative director of Givenchy, also offered his interpretation of that trend. Alongside monogrammed voluminous shorts and jackets, he juxtaposed grunge-inspired pieces made of intentionally aged denim: from baggy jeans and skirts to unique corset tops and colour-coordinated shoulder bags. A similar effect referring to the rebellious style of the 1990s was accomplished by Diesel. The Italian brand attested that it still has a lot to say about denim and spruced up this ordinary material with tulle, tassels, and lace and dyed it to achieve a sun-bleached effect.

‘romy’ stiletto pumps with monogram od Jimmy Choo SPRING/SUMMER 2024

Jimmy Choo

‘Romy’ stiletto pumps with monogram

Heeled sandals od Dolce & Gabbana PERMANENT COLLECTION

Dolce & Gabbana

Heeled sandals

‘aspos’ cropped blazer od The Mannei

The Mannei

‘Aspos’ cropped blazer

‘varenne’ denim shoulder bag od Jimmy Choo SPRING/SUMMER 2024

Jimmy Choo

‘Varenne’ denim shoulder bag

Denim jacket od Acne Studios PERMANENT COLLECTION

Acne Studios

Denim jacket

Appliquéd pumps od Dolce & Gabbana PERMANENT COLLECTION

Dolce & Gabbana

Appliquéd pumps

From your bedroom to the street

Nightwear is no longer just for sleeping. Transparent, lace and mesh fabrics have been admired on the catwalks for the past few seasons, but it’s this year’s spring/summer collections that are the true culmination of this trend. Taking inspiration from silk nightgowns, sheer slips or lingerie corsets, the world's designers have taken evening fashion to a whole new level. In their exclusive ready-to-wear collections, they showed its new face through designs full of sex-appeal, as well as sensual silhouettes with a minimalist twist. The former were presented by Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Nensi Dojaka. The Italian brands opted for bold and figure-enhancing corseted cuts, while the Albanian designer experimented with mini dresses, covering them in decorative lace and striking lurex textures.

A counterbalance to this extravagant approach was offered by the transparent and translucent designs by Saint Laurent, Fendi and Bottega Veneta. Anthony Vaccarello – a master of refined elegance – opted for perfectly tailored column dresses, while Kim Jones and Matthieu Blazy showed sheer designs inspired by petticoats. What will you choose?

Lingerie bustier od Dolce & Gabbana PERMANENT COLLECTION

Dolce & Gabbana

Lingerie bustier

Cropped satin top od Dolce & Gabbana PERMANENT COLLECTION

Dolce & Gabbana

Cropped satin top

Dress with crinkled effect od Burberry

Burberry

Dress with crinkled effect

‘mataro’ lace top od The Mannei

The Mannei

‘Mataro’ lace top

Trousers with floral motif od Burberry

Burberry

Trousers with floral motif

Top with straps od Nensi Dojaka

Nensi Dojaka

Top with straps

Sleeveless bodysuit od Maison Margiela PERMANENT COLLECTION

Maison Margiela

Sleeveless bodysuit

Minimalism 2.0

Functionality, pragmatism and a subdued color palette. Simplicity in fashion is going strong, which is perfectly exemplified by the functional minimalism trend in the fall/winter season. As an extension of – and sometimes a twist on – the style loved by fans of the classics, designers are re-examining the charms of timelessness in fashion and casting a fresh, often unobvious look at discreet luxury. In Bottega Veneta's spring/summer collection, straight-cut shirts, jackets, as well as tops and skirts balancing between shades of beige and ecru led the way. Wool garments were interspersed with designs sewn from leather, creating a coherent and well-thought-out vision of the stylish casual for more than just one season. A lasting impression was made by silhouettes starring suit trousers from Dries Van Noten. We especially liked the oversized blazer, whose turquoise color perfectly offset the formality of the whole look.

When thinking about the spring minimalism, it’s also impossible not to mention the designs of Lanvin and Jil Sander. In the latest collection of the French fashion house, Bruno Sialelli opted for pristine coats and elegant shorts in an earthy color palette, while the brand lead by Luke and Lucie Meier dared to do even more. Alongside the monochromatic and detail-limited styles were skirts covered with cascades of feathers, tops with decorative cut-outs and dresses that flaunted sequin accents on the hips. Who said classics have to be boring?

Leather penny loafers od Saint Laurent PERMANENT COLLECTION

Saint Laurent

Leather penny loafers

Silk blazer od Saint Laurent PERMANENT COLLECTION

Saint Laurent

Silk blazer

‘terras’ trousers od The Mannei

The Mannei

‘Terras’ trousers

‘blondie’ leather pumps od Gucci SPRING/SUMMER 2024

Gucci

‘Blondie’ leather pumps

‘wanda medium’ shoulder bag od FERRAGAMO PERMANENT COLLECTION

FERRAGAMO

‘Wanda Medium’ shoulder bag

Ribbed sleeveless dress od Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Ribbed sleeveless dress

Leather dress od Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Leather dress

High-rise shorts od Chloé SPRING/SUMMER 2024

Chloé

High-rise shorts

Details matter

If austere simplicity is not for you, you might love expressive details like extravagant sequins or eye-catching maxi tassels. Designers haven’t forgotten about this group of fashionistas, offering a range of styles inspired by the crazy '80s. Shimmering sequins were showcased on the catwalks of Dolce & Gabbana, Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, Nensi Dojaka and Michael Kors. Sensual dresses and tops played the first fiddle, skirts of various lengths and nonchalant trousers made an appearance, and extravagant bodysuit and jumpsuit designs were sprinkled in here and there. Although silvery models focused the most attention, creative directors did not forget the season's most fashionable colors, such as juicy red, timeless shades of blue or the beloved pink.

As for tassels and feathers, playing with colors was in full swing. Bottega Veneta and Alexander McQueen balanced red and blue, green appeared on Victoria Beckham's bags, while Versace used shades of purple. Not limited to one shade, Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini mixed several colors at the same time in The Attico collection, while blue and timeless shades of brown reigned supreme on designs by Proenza Schouler. The duo of Jil Sander and Jacquemus presented a more subdued version of the trend – the designs were decorated with cream tassels of various lengths.

Denim vest od forte_forte SPRING/SUMMER 2024

forte_forte

Denim vest

Pumps with crystals od Dolce & Gabbana PERMANENT COLLECTION

Dolce & Gabbana

Pumps with crystals

Sequin dress od Balenciaga SPRING/SUMMER 2024

Balenciaga

Sequin dress

‘midnight’ clutch od The Attico SPRING/SUMMER 2024

The Attico

‘Midnight’ clutch

Shoulder bag od Versace PERMANENT COLLECTION

Versace

Shoulder bag

Dolce & gabbana x kim od Dolce & Gabbana PERMANENT COLLECTION

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana x Kim

Dolce & gabbana x kim od Dolce & Gabbana PERMANENT COLLECTION

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana x Kim

‘jodie mini’ handbag od Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

‘Jodie Mini’ handbag

Incognito mode

The 1980s are a relatively big source of inspiration this season, because in addition to sequins and cascades of feathers, the hottest styling element of the time – the hood – has also made a return. But it’s not the type of hood inspired by sporty sweatshirts – rather, it’s the element of the iconic ‘hooded dress’ popularized in 1986 by Azzedine Alaïa's muse, Grace Jones. In the spring/summer collections we could see a great return of this sophisticated design element, as the most influential brands rediscovered its hidden possibilities and unlimited potential for experimentation.

Saint Laurent, Versace and, of course, Alaïa deserve the most recognition here. The world’s fashion houses did not limit themselves to one cut either. Exquisite draped dresses and exclusive tops led the way at the shows, but there was also no shortage of practical bodysuit designs. The color palette delighted with its diversity: black contrasted with white, shades of purple intermingled with browns, and what turned out to be the icing on the cake was lime green.

Denim skirt od MM6 Maison Margiela PERMANENT COLLECTION

MM6 Maison Margiela

Denim Skirt

Denim coat by dries van noten od Dries Van Noten SPRING/SUMMER 2024

Dries Van Noten

Denim coat by Dries Van Noten

Sequined dress od ROTATE PERMANENT COLLECTION

ROTATE

Sequined Dress

Hooded dress od Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent

Hooded dress

Striped dress od Ganni AUTUMN/WINTER 2024

Ganni

Striped dress

Dress with a round neckline od TOTEME AUTUMN/WINTER 2024

TOTEME

Dress with a round neckline

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