MEN'S TRENDS
FOR THE SPRING/SUMMER 2023 SEASON
A trend is a change in values, dreams, fears, and desires that can be observed in society from a human perspective, wrote Els Dragt in her
book 'How to Research Trends.' The year 2023 will undoubtedly be a year in which we discuss the future with increasing boldness and volume.
We are closely watching the dynamic development of technology, artificial intelligence, and global politics, envisioning both dystopian and utopian scenarios.
We try to name the unknowns, return to what is familiar and “safe,” or search for something entirely new in the hope
that it will bring the long-awaited positive change. Social media, which by design focuses on visual information, has become
the new “street”—an endless well of inspiration, but also a click-driven machine where trends are both born and die out.
Millions of users share what matters to them every day, documenting their lives and — naturally — their fashion choices.
How can you stay true to yourself with so many possibilities? Discover the trends straight from the runways for the SS23 season and get inspired to add
freshness to your everyday looks.
GOTH – TAMING THE DARKNESS
Black is back. The gothic trend is once again returning to the mainstream, serving as a counterbalance to cheerful, colorful ‘dopamine dressing.’ The goth subculture was born in the 1980s in English post-punk music clubs as an expression of opposition to the mainstream and socially imposed norms. Like every subculture, it had its own political ethos and language, but most importantly, its own aesthetic—embracing androgynous designs and DIY, intentionally aging and “destroying” clothes.
Everything niche and alternative quickly gets absorbed by high fashion. This season, the style inspired by this rebellious social group appeared on the runways in its most theatrical and glamorous incarnation. We saw airy capes at Saint Laurent, vintage-style biker jackets, Victorian lace, latex, and leather. This dark aesthetic has long reigned in the collections of Alexander McQueen, featuring the iconic skull motif, or in a more athletic take, in Rick Owens’ designs. Find inspiration too among the attendees of the increasingly popular rave parties.
Try the dark style for yourself
BLAZERS TAILORED FOR OUR TIMES
It might seem that everything has already been said about blazers. Recently, they have lost some of their "formality"—spotted on the streets, paired with jeans and sneakers. This season, however, they returned to the runways as the main stars, stealing the spotlight at many shows. Designers are racing to come up with unique and eye-catching ways to reinvent such a classic wardrobe staple as the blazer. Exaggerated, oversized shoulders that create a very masculine silhouette were showcased by Saint Laurent, while hyperbolically accentuated waists appeared in the collections of Dries Van Noten and Gucci.
Exceptionally cropped styles dominated the runway at VTMNTS. Blazers at the SS23 shows drew attention with prints and colors at Dolce & Gabbana and Moschino, shimmered with decorative embellishments at Off-White, and amazed with cut-outs and asymmetric cuts as seen at Alexander McQueen. Versace, more than any other brand, knows that more simply means... more—presenting looks with blazers layered one over another.
NO GENDER - BE YOURSELF
For centuries, trousers were exclusively a masculine wardrobe staple. This unwritten rule was challenged in the 19th century by the feminist movement. Initially, women who wore trousers were mocked and pointed at, yet they undoubtedly became an important phenomenon in the emancipation movement. Trousers—more comfortable and practical than long skirts—allowed women to spend their free time actively and, most importantly, offered them a choice. This season, fashion gives men a choice by introducing wardrobe elements and cuts previously considered distinctly feminine. Ultra-short shorts ruled the runway at VTMNTS, corset tops appeared in the Balenciaga show, and skirts took center stage at Moschino and Jil Sander. Floral motifs blossomed on the Etro runway, Dolce & Gabbana captivated with lace, and bags and jewelry completed the looks.
Generation Z, which plays a huge role in shaping current trends, increasingly questions the binary division of gender and the socially accepted rules and norms—something visible in their TikTok-inspired styles. They boldly play with contrasts, mixing and matching traditionally feminine and masculine elements. Breaking the unwritten rules of menswear can be a metaphorical shedding of armor, allowing everyone to express their personality more freely. Will the no gender trend, dominating the runways and blurring the boundaries between women’s and men’s fashion, bring us another revolution?
FUTURE PREP – NOT JUST FOR TOP STUDENTS
When the outside world becomes too chaotic and unpredictable, people tend to turn back to classics and tried-and-true solutions. The 'preppy' style originates from elite American preparatory schools and Ivy League universities. Up until the 1980s, it was primarily a symbol of privilege and social status. The fashion world continually reinterprets this aesthetic, increasingly distancing itself from its originally rigid worldview and even stricter rules of the school uniform, making it more inclusive.
'Neo-prep' or 'future prep' eagerly draws inspiration from prestigious sports such as tennis, rugby, sailing, or polo and mixes them with elements of youth subcultures. Varsity jackets, rugby collar T-shirts, chino trousers, braided sweaters draped over the shoulders, or woolen vests and cardigans could be seen on the runways of Kenzo, Dries Van Noten, and Wales Bonner, or in the collections of streetwear label Rhude. Classic wardrobe staples have gained more relaxed silhouettes, exploded with vibrant colors and bold patterns, and have captivated fashion lovers all over the world.
Create a look that’s top of the class
BLOKECORE – SUPPORTING YOUR TEAM IS IN STYLE
Sportswear, once considered a fashion ‘faux pas’ and something allowed only at home or at the gym, has completely redefined its meaning today. During the pandemic, we fell in love with tracksuit sets, and the forced shift in lifestyle made prioritizing comfort part of our daily routine. It’s no surprise that the fascination with and exploration of the potential of sportswear continues to develop, constantly seeking new forms of expression. Fashion has taken a closer look at one of the world’s most popular disciplines—football (soccer).
Global designers like Balenciaga and Gucci are collaborating with leading sportswear brands or creating capsule collections endorsed by top footballers—such as Dsquared2 teaming up with Zlatan Ibrahimović. Aware that nostalgia often drives trends, the multi-award-winning designer Wales Bonner reached into club archives from the 1970s. This is when the first British subculture, ‘the casuals,’ was born, centered around supporting favorite teams. Their ‘casual uniform’—T-shirts featuring a football idol’s name, simple jeans, and classic sneakers models—inspires today’s trendsetters, united under the hashtag #blokecore. Don’t miss the latest releases from one of every fan’s favorite brands—Stone Island.
LINGERIE TAKES CENTER STAGE
Fashion has never shied away from breaking the rules and bringing to the forefront what was once overlooked or even hidden. Lingerie becomes a fully-fledged, leading star in the outfits of trendsetters worldwide. This time, it is not “reserved” exclusively for supermodels. Although it naturally evokes associations with women’s fashion, it was actually a men’s garment—the codpiece, a type of flap or pouch attached to the front of trousers in the 15th century—that stands as the first recorded example of underwear worn as outerwear in fashion history. In the 1950s, the white T-shirt worn by Marlon Brando and James Dean suddenly became a symbol of youth rebellion, a declaration of attitude, while proving that showcasing this then distinctly masculine item of clothing shifted its strictly gendered associations.
This season, designers are also drawing inspiration from women’s fashion—on the runways of Acne Studios and Dolce & Gabbana, lace designs caught the eye, while at Etro, transparency and extra-short shorts reigned supreme. Silk pajama-inspired sets and robes are also having their moment—from animal prints and classic baroque motifs at Versace to elegant, timeless black designs at Saint Laurent. Neon colors of boxers peeking out from under trousers stole the spotlight at Givenchy.
THE WILD WEST IN YOUR WARDROBE
Yeehaw! Fashion is above all about having fun. The modern cowboys on the Casablanca runway aren’t afraid of color and psychedelic patterns. At Dries Van Noten, classic cowboy boots were paired with shorts—in an unconventional, sporty style or with a blazer. In this trend, timeless denim and suede reign supreme, but it’s the accessories and details that take center stage: stunning embroidery, fringes, oversized leather belt buckles, and above all: cowboy hats. Discover the latest designs starring the iconic match from Nick Fouquet.
Get inspired by the style of legendary western movie heroes. Pay attention to Gucci’s designs with their signature bit detail, and elevate your look with a scarf from Moschino or Givenchy. Lasso one of the hottest trends of the season!
See designs for contemporary cowboys